Amaya Arzuaga Spring Summer 2013

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The spring/ summer collection of Amaya Arzuaga is a reflection on the duality. Firstly, a duality is expressing itself through several materials. Indeed, the designer plays on the contrast between opacity/transparency. Cotton, silk and viscose dresses are sublimated with rhodoid elements which underline the delicacy of the body and reveal in a smart way a hip, shoulder or a part of the chest.

Afterwards, the game between flowing lines and stiffness expresses itself with the all-plastics jacket lightly worn on silky pants. The collection also builds on contrast in colors. Tones are pure and bright. Vermilion, green and blue stand out against black and white. Graduations are deep, from electric blue to emerald green and from purple to vermilion.

Highlighted by geometrical cut the inspiration of the designer is precise and structured. The whole collection is energetic and architectural.

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Cartier Initiative Women’s Awards à Deauville

Cartier Women's Initiative Awards

Ce jeudi 11 octobre 2012, lors du 8e Women’s Forum tenu au Centre International de Deauville sur le thème de la croissance à 360°C, ont été remis les prix du Cartier Women’s Initiative, décernés à 6 femmes entrepreneurs. Cette magnifique cérémonie s’est déroulée en présence de la ministre de l’économie numérique Fleur Pellerin (dont vous pouvez retrouver [...]
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Burberry feels the middle-class strain

It would seem that we are hanging onto our hard-earned cash, rather than spending it on the latest ‘IT’ bag or on the latest collection…

Burberry is blaming slowing sales faced by middle-class designer label lovers who can no longer afford their luxury fix.

The British brand’s finance director, Stacey Cartwright told The Guardian that while its wealthiest customers were spending more than ever, so-called “aspirational” shoppers – a term used to describe consumers who spend a large chunk of their disposable income on designer labels but cannot stretch to the most expensive items – were staying away from the shops.

Burberry is also blaming the Olympics that were held in London earlier this year as another reason for the slow-down.

“London was a lot quieter than usual when it came to shopping,” said Cartwright.

“We have a much greater exposure to London than many of our peers because it is our home market.”

Not too long ago Burberry set fear amongst luxury houses with the news of a profit warning that knocked off $US1.5 billion off its market value.

Analysts are left scratching their heads though if there is indeed a slowdown, with impressive figures reported by Prada recently and with them saying that they hadn’t experienced a slowdown, so it could be anyone’s guess in how 2012 will round out for the luxury houses.

By Cassandra Murnieks

Follow MO Luxury’s Facebook page for more luxury news…

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2012′s Best Global Luxury Brands

Almost 15% of Interbrand's 2012 Best Global Brands were luxury brands. We spoke with Interbrand to find out what makes these particular brands household names.
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Amazon flirts with luxury

Imagine buying a Louis Vuitton handbag or a pair of Gucci shoes off Amazon. No… neither can we, but it could soon be a reality with Amazon hiring an expert to set up an online store selling luxury brands.

While the website is one of the most powerful retailers in the world, most of the luxury houses are hesitant.

Most of us have turned to the online retailer for either the latest book or CD, but Amazon are now wanting to conquer fashion. While their low costs and high technology have helped it sell everything from microwaves to nappies, they may not work in an area where brands are cherished and expense signals cachet.

“This is a hot, hot issue,” said Hana Ben-Shabat, an AT Kearney consultant who advises fashion brands on e-commerce told the Financial Times, “It’s a dilemma because Amazon is the largest online store. You’ve got an opportunity to be part of that. But you ask yourself: ‘Do I want to be in the place where people go to find deals on shampoo, books and groceries? Do I want to be a part of a basket?’”

Jonathan Akeroyd, chief executive of Alexander McQueen said: “It’s very hard to keep up with the way e-commerce is changing and it would naive to say we would absolutely never do anything with a company like Amazon. That said, we are increasingly aware of the importance of brand identity online, and maintaining it at the highest levels, and that’s where most of our focus is right now.”

Yves Carcelle, chief executive of Louis Vuitton, said Amazon would need to invest a “huge amount” to understand luxury fashion.

“What I know for sure is that Amazon will never sell Louis Vuitton, because we are the only ones that sell it. This is a model of direct control that we pioneered, and I think long term it is the direction most luxury e-commerce will take.”

Amazon is also in discussions with major players such as Ralph Lauren and Coach, alongside Burberry, Gucci and Prada. One area of appeal for potential partners could be Amazon’s proven strength in leveraging user data.

“Every single day we monitor which brands are being searched for on our site, and that…is incredibly compelling to, say, Gucci, to learn that millions of times a year (consumers) will come to Amazon and expect to buy a Gucci watch,” Cathy Beaudoin, Amazon’s president of fashion told the Financial Times.

Hugo Boss, the German luxury house, would not count Amazon out, but is still developing its tactics. “As we continue to tighten control over the Hugo Boss e-business, we are also seeking to manage these important distribution channels more closely,” a spokesman said.

By Cassandra Murnieks

Image credit: amazon.com

Follow MO Luxury’s Facebook page for more luxury news…

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BRANKO POPOVIC REPORTS: MODO PARCOURS BRUSSERS 2012

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Dear Filep and iDEALS,

starting on Oct.12th and for three days (12-15)Modo Brussels celebrates its 12th edition of MODO PARCOURS.

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Raf SimmonsMarc Phillipe Coudeyre

This annual phenomenon has blossomed into becoming the largest fashion event in Brussels and has also gained a high-profile status throughout Belgium and beyond borders. For three days, Belgium’s hottest fashion talent exhibited their creations in the capital, at more than 60 different locations. A fashion trail that leads visitors through the most exciting selection of Brussels’ trend-setting establishments in the Dansaert and Sablon districts.

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For this edition Modo Brussels invited The Netherlands as the guest country. This had as result the amazing ‘High Fashion Low Countries’ exhibition as well as several installations from emerging Dutch designers like Winde Rienstra.

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I attended Modo Parcours for the very first time and encountered great energy, talent and loads of potential in Brussels.

Gioia Seghers & Winde Rienstra at HoetEls Mommearts 7

Text and images 

by

Branko Popovic

The Netherlands

Reported from Brussels

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Thanks Riders, this was fun!





Non ci sono foto di backstage, in questo post. D'altra parte, io ero sulla moto e Giorgio Serinelli, che di solito le scatta, questa volta era impegnato in un'impresa un tantino più complicata. Scattare al posto del "maestro" (come dice lui)

Ecco come (se) la racconta:

Toni Thorimbert: - Sul prossimo numero di Riders vado io in copertina.
Giorgio Serinelli: - Come?
T.T: - Si, la Stefania mi ha detto che hanno pensato di fare la cover con me.
G.S: - Cazzo, bellissimo! Ma chi ti fotografa…?
T.T: - Tu!
G.S: - Io?
T.T: - Si tu...Cioè, noi! La facciamo insieme.
G.S: - Mmmh…Ok!

Nel treno che va a trecento all’ora, io in seconda e lui in prima, con un messaggino ci diamo appuntamento al bar. Parlare del lavoro insieme, come quelli veri, quelli che fanno sul serio…

G.S: - Tanto sole oggi, il limbo lì è all'aperto…?
T.T: -...Eh si!
G.S: - Ma quanto tempo abbiamo più o meno..?
T.T: - Non tanto, ma lì non va quasi mai in ombra, forse più tardi, la sera.
G.S: - Ah… ok! …sai cosa? Forse potremmo farle in piena luce, non possiamo mica sempre andare dietro all’ombra...
T.T: - Si, potrebbe essere, vediamo..!

Un the, un caffè, e ognuno di nuovo al suo posto, quello che gli compete.

Quel treno vola. Dopo tre o quattro pensieri siamo già a Roma Termini e dopo mezz’ora siamo già immersi nel bianco, bianchissimo limbo all’aperto.

Outside, si chiama lo studio.



Come pensavamo, qui dell’ ombra nemmeno l’ombra, e aspettarla sembra come aspettare ansiosamente quella cosa che poi quando arriva, può troppo deluderti.
Crearla, l’ombra, era troppo macchinoso, ci avrebbe appesantito la testa e avremmo vissuto quella copertura come una restrizione, un limite.

Il bianco del fondo è interrotto solo da calcinacci che qua e la si staccano e ha delle travi in cima che con quel sole diventano magicamente il prolungamento della super marmitta Honda, una culla per la moto.
La chiave di lettura, quella che nel treno non puoi immaginare ma che poi qualcosa o qualcuno ti regala. La soluzione.


Il maestro impugna la moto e inizia a giocarci a muoversi, a muoverla, io scatto.
Lui è un po’ preoccupato.




T.T: - Dall’alto, stai più alto!
G.S: - Ok!


Scatto, scatto e lui dopo un po’ molla la moto e va al monitor, guarda…

T.T: - Non male ma dobbiamo scattare ancora, stai più largo, tienimi più piccolo.
G.S: - Mmmh…ok!

Continuo a scattare e inizio un po’ a muovermi, mi alzo e mi abbasso, mi muovo come fa lui e ad un certo punto, con lui in piedi sulla moto, lo guardo in macchina dal basso…

G.S: - Cazzo Toni, si... così sei fighissimo, è bellissima, guarda la moto, sentila!

(e tutte quelle cose che si dicono per evitare che ti dica: -Parla! cazzo, parla!))

Il maestro c’è, ma lui, c’è sempre stato. A quel punto però ci sono anche io, ci divertiamo nonostante i milioni di gradi che quel limbo ci sbatte in faccia, siamo sudatissimi e abbiamo appena iniziato.

La Stefania, photoeditor di Riders questa volta non c’è, Roberto Ungaro, il direttore, è impegnato a fare il suo: Telefonare, gestire cose, rispondere.
Non può starci troppo dietro. Insomma…siamo io e lui, in un bagno di sudore col sole allo zenit.

Il maestro scende da cavallo, guarda lo schermo, io gli indico la mia preferita, proviamo ad impaginarla e... ok, bella la cover!.



Ero felicissimo, mi piaceva, piaceva a lui e anche a Roberto, ma non sapevo che il lavoro duro doveva ancora arrivare.
Iniziamo a fare dettagli. Tagli del maestro sulla moto.

Clic clic clic, tanti clic…

Ad un certo punto dice:

T.T: - Non andiamo male, abbiamo delle immagini… Si belle, carine.
Adesso dobbiamo fare la foto però.


Ecco, secondo me la differenza tra chi è un fotografo e chi no è proprio questa: C’è chi fa delle belle immagini e chi fa “la foto”!
Al maestro gli ho visto fare sempre “la foto”, anche perché se no, lui non molla. Cazzo, sta li finchè non viene come dice lui, finche quell’espressione, quell’atteggiamento, quell’inquadratura non sono quello che ha pensato, quello che ha visto.

La giornata è stata dura, i rimproveri ancora di più!

T.T: - Cazzo stai giù!! Giorgio, Diobono, più basso! Stai col culo a terraaaa!!!! cazzo!!!!

Sudavo.

Ma ce la siamo cavata. Me la sono cavata. Alla fine ero ancora vivo e respiravo, era già un traguardo! Più pericoloso che fotografare il maestro… c’è solo fotografare il maestro mentre suda.

Mentre scattavo ho capito perché queste foto non le avrei mai firmate: Perché io senza il maestro avrei fatto solo delle “belle” immagini.

Ma, attenzione! Sto imparando in fretta...

Love, four ever...

Giorgio Serinelli.







Riders Magazine
October issue
"Honda is back"

Feat: Toni Thorimbert
Photographed by Toni Thorimbert
with Giorgio Serinelli

Shot in Rome @ Outside studios.




( Ah...Come va la moto?: Piuttosto bene, direi...)

Click on the pictures to enlarge.







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San Francisco Fashion Week ® 2012: DAPPERHOOD Menswear Styling Network Launch Event [Recap / Part 1]

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GIVENCHY / Photos by Filep Motwary

Red dress in a technic jersey of viscose, polyester and elasthane with graphic cutout front. Crew neckline, sleeveless. Concealed back zipper. Fitted waistline and bias-cut skirt for a naturally pleated effect by Givenchy. Leather boots by Tom Ford BoIMG_0767
Dress by Givenchy fw12. Leather boots Tom Ford.
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BRANKO POPOVIC PHOTOREPORTS: ROMAIN BRAU & VANESSA PINTO / ABSOLUTISM

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