Sneakypeek chats with Buying Controller for Equip Accessories, Julie Baker

This week, Sneakypeek’s gone a little Equip cray cray.

We’ve been giving away an Equip  fascinator a day via our Facebook page AND we’ve been named as Equip’s Blogger of the Moment. The Equip madness is not over, sweet sneakies. We’ve gone behind the counter and spoken to the lady behind the trinkets hanging in Equip stores! Here’s our sneakypeek with Equip’s Buying Controller herself, Julie Baker.

{ You have what most people would consider a girl’s dream job! Can you describe the life of a buyer? }

It’s a buyers job to spot trends as they emerge. This can be from the catwalk, film, music, the internet, magazines, the street.  We travel regularly to LA, New York, London, Paris, Tokyo as well as Hong Kong, China and India to make sure we know whats happening all around the world.

So many elements of life affect fashion now that you have to keep your eyes and ears open at all times. So the life of a Buyer really is a way of life, you never switch off because you never know where your inspiration is going to come from next and because its 24/7 you have to have a passion for fashion.

The next step is knowing how best to translate those trends for your customer so you have to make sure you are out in the stores as much as possible getting to know your customer really well.

{ That’s one shopping marathon! What comes after that? }

Once you’ve decided what trends you are going to buy into and how they are going to be translated for your customer you have to source manufacturers. Then the hard part comes finding the best manufacturer at the best price and quality who can produce the volume you want within the time scale you need. This is where a head for figures and strong negotiation skills come in, you have to be able to drive a hard bargain to make sure your customers get the very best for their money.

Many people think its all about going to fashion shows then selecting the product you want. Its really very different in reality, its hard work and it can be very stressful but I love it and couldn’t imagine doing anything else.

{ What accessories are essential for a spring racing look? }

A fantastic fascinator and a great clutch is the perfect place to start. Once you’ve decided what they are you can move on to the jewellery.

{ What are the trends for fascinators this spring racing season? }

Colour is really important this season particularly hot pink, it’s almost neon and looks great worn back to neutrals. The slightly smaller styles based on a pill box hat look really new and are very easy to wear. The great thing about a fascinator is it doesn’t ruin your hair and it really makes you look special.

{ What are you favourite pieces from the current collection at Equip? }

I’m loving the hot pink fascinator on the silver alice band for this racing season and I’m obsessed at the moment with our great neckwear range.

Short statement necklaces have really made a comeback and I love the new trend for collars they really give the plainest top a whole new lease on life.

{ Can you give us a sneakypeek into Equip’s unreleased collections? }

We’ve got some fantastic ranges between now and Christmas. Lots of amazing statement pieces at even more amazing prices but I cant give away too many secrets so you’ll have to watch this space.

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The School of Interior Architecture and Design is Holding a Panel Discussion

The School of Interior Architecture and Design is hosting a panel discussion moderated by Pamela Jaccarino, editor-in-chief of Luxe magazine, with special guests Laura Lienhard, Barbara Scavullo, and Jiun Ho who will be sharing their experiences and giving tips on breaking into the industry. Laura Lienhard is a textile designer, so we thought some of you might be interested in hearing what she has to say!

WHEN: Tuesday, October 23rd at 9:30 AM

WHERE: 601 Brannan Street – 1st Floor Presentation Area

For more Events, click here.

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INTERVIEW: EUGENE RICONNEAUS TALKS TO FILEP MOTWARY

INTERVIEW:  EUGENE RICONNEAUS TALKS TO FILEP MOTWARY
Dear iDEALS, Eugène Riconneaus presents himself as being 20 to 30 years old, depending on the need and where he is located. Described as an inspired skater, late-night painter and lover of crafts, he has already passed almost half his life in French boot makers workshops. Everything started during his teenagers’ years, when Eugène was 13 and falls in love with skateboarding and young women, skate and sneakers being as one, women and shoes also, the following is of implacable logic. He chooses to train at his own school – to the detriment of the typical school boy, spending all his time with boot-makers which we’ll find in future references, master craftsman of Northampton or Romans, true stronghold of high manufacture – more particularly an old boot-maker of J.Lobb to whom he owes a lot.

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A few years later, he starts graphic studies, studies which he stops due to lack of finance. This was for the best because it is how he devotes himself entirely to explore the universe of women throughout the obscure object of desire that is the shoe, without missing on embezzling the most dandy of his coevals with his sneaker or “ souliers de sport”.

Inspired by women around him in his daily life, it is on the feet of his muses, artists, editors, models, women of one night stand or women he met day or night which helped him deliver in his 18 year his first feminine shoe collection. For love of the know-how but also to homage French boot makers who passed on their knowledge, his creations are entirely crafted in France by qualified craftsman. His first shoe was a derby with slight appearance, crafted with copper loss and a sole… in wood. After all, we all learn form persevering…

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FilepMotwary: Eugene, it was your love for women that forced you to get involved in shoe design? Though there is also your passion for skateboarding. I am a bit confused here, can you justify?

EugeneRiconneaus: When I was 12/13, I was constantly skateboarding, which very often had as result having my shoes damaged. I often had to patch them back together. At that time, next to my parents house, we had a Sicilian (formerly of John Lobb London) boot maker and I used to visit his shop and he would help me for my shoes. After the discovery of that universe, the tools and craft of boot-making I fell really in love with leather. During the early blow, I used to go & see him every Wednesday afternoon after school. Until you I had school no longer. At the same time I started discovering women. The transition from shoes to women happened very quickly : I started drawing shoes to seduce my girlfriends...

FM: How would you describe your current collection as well as the SS13 you just presented?

ER: The new collection is very couture, it is a composition for a new "hybrid shoe - form" with many color and different materials, For example, the Annabelle shoe is a bias on the outside made of black kidskin suede, while the inside is made of imperialli black satin. Or the Nina shoe, which its outer calf white box and inside goatskin silver. My DNA is very present in this particular collection, all the work has this leather perforating embellished, notched leather and the notched crown sole. Also this season I focus on metal parts, such as new loop notched and courones silver with details of cuts. Last but not least, my collaboration with prestigious Anne Valérie Hash for whom I created shoes and will be on sale in under the label Eugene Riconneaus x Anne Valérie Hash and has a very similar and vibrant spirit.

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Eugene Riconneaus shoes for Anne Valerie Hash SS13

FM: How did everything start for you really? Where did you study and how everything evolved after?

ER: I did not have the strength to afford a fashion school. I left college in the middle and started working as a free-lancer graphic designer. I started slowly saving some money for the launch of my shoe line when I was 18. I was lucky to be given a few samples of leather and forms to create my first prototypes (Belleville, Cholet, Novels). My first capsule collection was born and there comes JOYCE from Hong Kong who bought everything. Step by step, season after season, business went better and better.

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FM: Why you have chosen fashion as your profession in the first place.

ER: I always wanted to do something creative for women. After an bootmaker encounter I came across one usual day, I got instantly inspired.

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FM: How did you form the Eugene Riconneaus heroine / the woman you design shoes for?

ER: There's a relationship — almost a love relationship — that's very important for my creative process. I am in daily contact with women, and I find shoes as an incredibly seductive accessory if you allow me to say. It's up to me to breathe in their desires, and ultimately combine inspiration with their personalities. In each of my shoes collections, the shoe has a woman's name. It can be the name of a friend, a lover, or a woman I knew for just one night... I'd like to give total accessibility to my work to artists, visual or not, to writers, and to city-dwelling poets.

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FM: There is also a men's collection if I am not mistaken?

ER: Not exactly, I only created only men's shoes just for special collaborations , it is a bit like my secret pleasure that I communicate in my own way. My first man shoe : a cross jodhpurs loop that I only edited for Colette as well as my first men's sneakers  some new designs I did for BMW, and will be uniquely sold in their new space on Avenue George V in Paris.

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FM: What was the Colette project about?

ER: Its called "Cabinet de Curiosités", my work is placed alongside independent designers who want to define luxury according to their talent and not techniques dependent by sales. I was asked to create pieces that were both unisex and timeless. My decision was to revise the sport shoe, which is related to an old personal story, Calcuta,  the first pair of sneakers that I created and sold. I turned it into a unisex version, in white with supple box-calfskin leather,  jagged edges and interchangeable leather tassels. This shoe has no season and no limits.

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FM: What is your design philosophy.

ER: Every shoe that I create is always under guidance of an encounter with a woman. My procedure is always based on the form of a dialogue, a meeting. Each shoe creation must have a history of manufacturing, reflect expertise and match my DNA.

FM: What do you think of feet in general? Is it a form of fetish for you?

ER: Unlike the ready to wear, shoes are made to support you. No foot fetish there, I feel exactly just like a kid doing shoes for women.

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FM: Do you feel fashion is changing? If yes to which direction?

ER: I'd better answer your question in 10 years... In any case, fashion is changing but always returns, on the same road that you know well, except that it returns with another car and different fuel.

FM: What is the most important thing a young shoe designer must know?

ER: The most significant is making good shoe manufacturing. Also, you need to have your own DNA, your own identity and not just to be ultra creative. One needs to have a style that fits its time, have a coherence collection..

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FM: What shall we expect from you in the near future?

ER: I have many projects going on right now! I just created a man's capsule sneaker for a large department store in Hong Kong, launched in early 2013. Also I am about to present a new co-branding with BMW on November 3rd, four styles of unique sneakers, as mentioned above. Lastly, I am now the new artistic director for a very old French shoe's HOUSE, that exists for almost a century... More soon...


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Karlie Kloss and Joan Smalls Bring Back MTV’s House of Style

Karlie Kloss and Joan Smalls interview M.I.A. backstage at Stella McCartney. 

Many of you might not be old enough to remember the original House of StyleMTV’s fashion focused show hosted by some of the biggest supermodels of the era including Cindy Crawford, Rebecca Romijn, and Molly Sims. Premiering in 1989, the show focused on the glamorous lives of fashion icons including models and designers, but also touched on important issues affecting the industry such as eating disorders and animal rights.

But now, after a twelve-year hiatus (except for one episode that totally flopped) MTV is looking to revive their former hit. They’ve tapped mega-models Karlie Kloss and Joan Smalls (who’ve both walked in our show BTW) to host the show, interviewing designers, attending fashion fêtes, and letting viewers in on all of the behind-the-scenes action. The first episode aired this week and followed the girls as they walked the shows during Paris Fashion WeekIt features interviews with Stella McCartney, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander Wang and more.

Follow the jump to watch the video and let us know in the comments – will you be tuning into House of Style?

 

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MTV House Of Style

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Treasure Island Music Festival

Treasure Island Music Festival. Photo by Anna-Alexia Basile. 

We’re still trying to recover from the Treasure Island Music Festival that took over San Francisco this past weekend. Two full days filled with amazing music, tons of sunshine, ferris wheel rides, and more – no wonder we’re exhausted. But it was totally worth it to get a chance to see the stellar line-up of artists that partook in the fest this year. Saturday’s highlights included our girl Grimes who had an amazing set, complete with two back-up musicians wearing iridescent veils, and Toro y Moi whose synth-pop sounds set the perfect tone against the gorgeous San Francisco skyline. Later in the day, notable sets included Australian duo The Presets who played to a massive crowd on the main stage and SBTRKT, who – though his set was cut short – had the crowd going wild for the duration of his performance.

On Sunday, the line-up had a decidedly more laid back feel, featuring a host of indie and rock bands. Some of our favorites were Wild Belle, Youth Lagoon, and Best CoastBut it was Sunday’s headliners, M83 and The XX, who really stole the show. M83′s live show was bursting with energy and had everyone at the festival dancing. And The XX, though they put on a much mellower performance, sounded unbelievably beautiful. They are one of those rare acts that actually sound better live. They closed the festival on a high note, and left us wanting more.

Treasure Island never ceases to impress us, and we’re already looking forward to next year! Follow the jump for more photos by Anna-Alexia Basile

Grimes. 

Toro y Moi. 

Fans take the stage at Girl Talk. 

Best Coast. 

Pure magic at M83.

Romi of The XX. 

All photos by Anna-Alexia Basile. 

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KONSTANTIN KAKANIAS: TEPENDRIS RISING

         

The animated short film TEPENDRIS RISING catches up with artist Konstantin Kakanias' iconic, fashion-obsessed character Mrs. Tependris. Created and illustrated by Kakanias, the film was brought to life by Co Films and the directing duo The Pain. The short finds Mrs. Tependris on one of her famous retreats - cryogenically frozen for chic posterity - when inspiration comes calling: it's time for a fashion comeback. With her assistant Pearl, her dog Pepe, and her sly sense of humor, Mrs. Tependris must face 20-foot spiders and catwalk catastrophe on her fabulous journey from ice-cube to icon.

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Designers Unveiled for the Inaugural Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Africa , Oct. 24th-28th, 2012 #Africanfashion

Creative fashion custodians of contemporary culture set to hit the runway.

An exciting line-up of some of Africa and the diaspora’s most significant designers will descend on Melrose Arch, Johannesburg, from October 24-28 to unveil an array of captivating collections in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Africa 2012.

Presented by African Fashion International (AFI), the Gateway to Fashion & Lifestyle, Africa’s most prestigious fashion gathering is being held for the first time at Melrose Arch, Johannesburg’s definitive destination for high street fashion, sophisticated style and urban culture.

With more than 20 shows over four days, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Africa will present designers from South Africa, Cote D’Ivoire, Morocco, Mozambique, Cameroon, Rwanda, Angola, DRC, Trinidad, New York, Nigeria and Ghana – all of whom have been chosen for their standards of global relevance and commercial viability along with a distinctive design that exemplifies African creativity.

“Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Africa is the authentic contemporary African Fashion gathering, bringing together and honouring designers from the four corners of the continent and the African diaspora. This global platform for the African fashion aesthetic showcases the global relevance and commercial viability of our industry along with innovation and distinctive design,” says AFI Executive Chairperson Dr. Precious Moloi-Motsepe.

This year MBFW Africa truly crosses borders and from the diaspora New Yorker Kevan Hall is one of Hollywood’s go-to red carpet designers with his philosophy of glamour with a modern sensibility while, from the Caribbean, Anya Ayoung Chee Anya’s unique, top quality designs are inspired by the beauty of the islands along with a modern, elegant interpretation.

Now based in London, South African Jacob Kimmie’s collections seek to convey profound artistic, historical and social paradoxes.

From South Africa, fashion greats include Cape Town’s Kluk CGDT, Gavin Rajah and Craig Native who will join Johannesburg’s David Tlale, Marianne Fassler, Thula Sindi as well as Durban swim-wear designer Dax Martin’s “Burg Collection Brought to you by Glocell”.

Angola’s Shunnoz Fiel and Tekasala Ma’at Nzinga, meanwhile, are the forces behind Projecto Mental, a brand that links Angola to the world through fashion. Having shown collections in Tokyo, London and Lisbon Fashion Weeks, Projecto Mental’s goal is to use fashion & art to reshape Angola’s cultural image.

The Nigerian contingent includes Ngozi Ochonogor of U.mi-1’s label who aims to create a “fashion as art” brand through collaborations with home-grown artists while compatriot Maki Oh’s design ethos is largely inspired by the Agbada (traditional Yoruba menswear), Western formal wear and the female body form. Lagos’ Deola Sagoe, meanwhile, offers edgy, dynamic women’s fashion, while Ituen Basi, a London College of Fashion graduate will present a collection exuding a fresh design interpretation and celebration of ubiquitous Nigerian print.

From West Africa, Cote D’Ivoire’s Laurence Airline is a fashion label based in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire, the hometown of chief designer, Laurence Chauvin Buthaud. Born in Africa and raised in Switzerland before moving to Paris, Laurence Airline’s men’s wear collections are all produced in Abidjan.

Mustafa Hassanali, from Tanzania, has showcased in 16 countries world-wide and has also been named one of Africa’s Top Male Fashion Designer by UK’s New African Woman Magazine. Loin Cloth & Ashes is known for its hidden detailing, elegant edgy vibe, comfort and fit. The brand designs unique dresses that are made to create a statement but still maintain a timeless air of luxury and style.

From Casablanca to Cape Town

Morocco’s Amine Bendriouich is renowned for a timeless collection that follows culture rather than a season and presents a mosaic of influences spanning early Hip Hop Culture through the underground trend of Casablanca.

Mozambican designer, Eliana Rodrigues Murargy’s Murade brand presents a fusion of elegance, sophistication and simplicity with her glorious designs having been showcased in various Fashion Weeks including Mozambique and Brazil while her fellow Mozambican, Taibo Bacar, comes to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Africa with a “Best Designer” accolade from that country’s Fashion Week.

From the Cameroon, Kibonen is the first designer to create and publicize the intricacies and beauty of the toghu designs typically found in hand-woven traditional attires in Cameroon’s North West Province while the Kreyann label mixes beautifully-classical and fantasy influences.

Three designers from Ghana will hit the runway, including Duaba Serwa whose label represents luxury and superb craftsmanship in the use of fabrics such as raw silks and linen while incorporating bold colours and African prints. Kiki Clothing’s Titi Ademola, meanwhile, makes use of African textiles, vibrant colours and Afro-centric prints to create simple and wearable styles while; Mimi Plange’s label innovatively fuses Victorian Europe, Pre-colonial Africa and modern American Sportswear into extraordinary day and evening designs.

Rwanda’s Mille Collines label, meanwhile, was born when two Spanish designers, Marc Oliver and Inés Cuatrecasas, created a collection inspired by a Rwandan woman. The brand reflects Africa’s strength and sensibility with attention to detail and handmade finishes.

Tina Lobondi, originally from Congo and now based in London, has created a label based on classic and chic designs with fabrics and materials sourced from around the world – from Mauritania to Paris and London.
Modahnik is a Chicago based women’s wear brand founded in 2009 by designer Kahindo Mateene, a native of the Democratic Republic of Congo who transforms ordinary prints into stylish, wearable pieces of art that accentuate a woman’s body.

From Core D’Ivoire, Elie Kuame’s Couture creations reflect a cultural mosaic combining different materials such as silk, lace, leather, fur, pearl, stone and most unusually, bark, with great skill.

Three designers that showcased at the recent Zimbabwe Fashion Week, Intisaar, Maito Marimo and Zuvva by Joyce have been selected in the showcase that aims to show the vibrant culture of Zimbabwe and utilize fashion as a platform for job creation and societal development, meanwhile providing a fashion network between South Africa and Zimbabwe.

Ensuring a mix of emerging designers, the winners of the AFI Fastrack 2012 internship and training programme – Capetonian Kim Gush, Wetive Nkosi from Johannesburg and Kyra-Moon Halfpenny from Durban – will unveil their capsule collections at the inaugural Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Africa (MBFW Africa) on October 24.

As part of the Seasons-France 2012-13 partnership between South Africa and France, designer, Fred Sathal will be unveiling her dynamic collection at MBFW Africa. Ms Sathal was previously involved in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town 2012 where she hosted a design Masterclass for both 2010/2011 AFI Fastrack™ winners and finalists while she will also mentor the AFI Fastrack™ 2012 winner in France next year.

Apart from the runway shows, the associated Africa Trade Expo, endorsed by SA Tourism, will feature 28 exhibitors from South Africa, Ghana, Nigeria and the UK, presenting a diverse showcase of the best collections of African men’s and women’s fashion apparel and accessories as well as retail concepts and fabrics.

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HAIDER ACKERMANN SS13 / PHOTOS BY FILEP MOTWARY

HAIDER ACKERMANN SS13 _ PHOTOS BY FILEP MOTWARY under copyrights © 170

All photographs by Filep Motwary ©
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Bilan du salon TRANOI FEMME

tranoi_MG_4970

TRANOI FEMME (28 Septembre au 01 octobre) : un succès estimé. Tranoï, qui mettait en lumière les collections été 2013 femme pour cette édition de Septembre, a une fois de plus, été couronné de succès, réunissant acheteurs, exposants, organisateurs et journalistes autour d’une certitude : « le salon est désormais un rendez-vous immanquable de la [...]
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The beauty of Giovanna Battaglia / Photos by Filep Motwary

The beauty of Giovanna Battaglia _ Photos by Filep Motwary under copyrights © 164The beauty of Giovanna Battaglia _ Photos by Filep Motwary under copyrights © 165
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