Moon Young Hee collection femme PAP PE 2013

IMG_1034-001

Cette saison Prêt-à-Porter femme, j’ai eu la chance de pouvoir assister à de sublimes défilés. Le premier? Celui de Moon Young Hee, la célèbre créatrice coréenne. La femme Moon Young Hee est d’une rare élégance. Des drapés et volumes originaux nous donnent à penser que celle-ci puisse s’envoler à l’aide de ses vêtements sans l’ombre d’un [...]
Comments Off

Martin Grant collection femme prêt à porter printemps été 2013

IMG_1758-001

Raffiné. Voilà le premier qualificatif qui me vient à l’esprit quand je repense à cette collection. La nouvelle collection printemps été 2013 prêt à porter de Martin Grant nous présente une femme élégante, élancée, sensuelle, qui arbore des matières nobles. Une silhouette sophistiquée qui n’omet pas pour autant de mettre en avant ses atouts. Le [...]
Comments Off

Maison Rabih Kayrouz collection prêt à porter printemps été 2013

IMG_1861

Un des défilés les plus attendus cette saison était celui de Maison Rabih Kayrouz, le styliste et couturier libanais. Connu pour sublimer les courbes de la femme par ses créations de robes du soir féeriques, ce dernier a déjà travaillé au sein des ateliers des Maisons Dior et Chanel. C’est donc avec grande joie que Luxsure [...]
Comments Off

Martyre de fleurs blanches pour Une Voix Noire, Serge Lutens

map sergelutens billie

Je devais avoir dix ou onze ans quand mon père m’a parlé de Billie Holiday. Sa voix rocailleuse et belle remplissait tellement d’espaces et de blancs quand il conduisait. Il me parlait de Lady Day et sa quête de reconnaissance dans une Amérique en proie à la ségrégation raciale, ses hauts et ses bas, ses addictions. Ses mots à lui se mélangeaient à sa voix à elle, tissant ensemble la légende de celle qui avait été un jour Eleonora Fagan.

She had been strikingly beautiful, but she was wasted physically to a small, grotesque caricature of herself. The worms of every kind of excess – drugs were only one – had eaten her … The likelihood exists that among the last thoughts of this cynical, sentimental, profane, generous and greatly talented woman of 44 was the belief that she was to be arraigned the following morning.

~ Gilbert Millstein, The New York Times contributor,
Sleeve notes of The Essential Billie Holliday, 1961

Au coeur d’Une Voix Noire, il y a une page blanche, celle que Serge Lutens entame d’un trait de stylo pour coucher les instants de la vie de Billie. A chaque note de sa voix brisée, altérée, somputueuse, inoubliable voix, les émotions jaillissent. Cette nouvelle glisse sur lsa vie comme un doigt sur une page, cherchant la note juste.

Serge Lutens est un maître de la parfumerie expressioniste, et le moment qu’il dépeint dans les volutes qu’il créé est l’ingrédient principal de ses jus. Il n’est pas surprenant qu’il soit avare d’explication, en homme pudique pour qui dévoiler une liste d’ingrédients relève de l’impudence. Une Voix Noire est donc son homage faceté à l’une des plus belles voix du jazz, un prisme qui observe les moments qui définissent cette étrange et malheureuse vie.

Un gardénia blanc pour cacher une imperfection de cette fleur de bitume, pour adoucir une vie de scandales et de bonheurs artificels. La première effluve dévoile la présence de cette fleur blanche, exhalant seule son dernier souffle. Les notes de tabac, fumeuses et qui s’imposent dans les narines, s’enroulent autour de soi, peignant un tableau en noir et blanc de la scène jazz. On entre dans le club, cet univers décadent mais musical. Une dernière cigarette avant la scène, à une époque où fumer dans un restaurant n’était pas interdit mais côtoyer une autre couleur de peau l’était. L’ambiance est lourde, comme un sentiment d’interdit. Le rhum brun flotte dans l’air, comme le fumet vague et alcoolisé de la fin de soirée.

A la toute fin, les pétales blancs sont tellement maltraités qu’ils en sont méconnaissables… Comme elle, la divine, la perdue. C’est ce que Lutens fait à ses fleurs blanches, il les foule dans ses mains. Martyrisées, détruites, elles deviennent légende. Dans la pénombre, leur chant du cygne s’étendant comme la voix de Billie. Je ferme les yeux. Le gardénia s’évapore dans la nuit, comme les dernières notes de sa chanson aux obsèques de mon père. Le tonnerre d’applaudissement n’a d’égal que le sang qui bat dans nos oreilles.

Billie Holiday disparaît dans la nuit par la porte de service, laissant derrière elle sa couronne fleurie. Mon père arrête la cassette. Serge Lutens pose son stylo. Je repose le bouchon de verre dans le col du flacon.

Comments Off

Ledbury Research: Luxury Market Insight Report 2012

Nicola Ko, analyst at Ledbury Research, suggests that directly controlled stores and non-Chinese emerging markets will play an important role in the future of luxury brands
Comments Off

all you need…

The post all you need… appeared first on sass & bide blog.

Comments Off

A Tale of 2 Bandits

Tamar Wider – the designer of The 2 Bandits.

I follow Tamar Wider’s voice down the hallway into her work studio. It brings me to a second hallway lined by brightly knit rugs, and leads to a humble room full of curiosities. I had to keep my eyes from wandering all over before I fixated on the tiny designer and an equally tiny dog, Rigby.

“Don’t worry, Rigby’s nice. She’s just shy when she first meets people.” Tamar explains.

Rigby’s nervous shakes weren’t enough to distract from the numerous trinkets perfectly disseminated around the room. Band posters, and personal black and white photographs coat the walls. Tribal antiquities and odd jars of flowers are sitting on table surfaces and wall nooks. There are bits and pieces of 2 Bandits remnants carefully organized into tiny shelves throughout. It’s a bohemian dream realized through interior decorating.

It matches Tamar’s seamlessly unkempt hair and ripped jeans. “Messy-neat” she illuminates. Tamar’s one employee and right hand woman is situated in the middle of the room, typing up an order form.

“I just want to be like all the people in The Last Waltz. I want to be like Neil Young, and I want to be Bob Dylan’s girlfriend. The Bandit girl is the girl that got caught smoking in the bathroom in high school.”

Follow the jump to read more!

Laughing, she continues.

“I was obsessed with the documentary, The Last Waltz. It’s about The Band… called The Band – Dylan’s back up band. It was their last waltz, the last concert, and everyone joined them. Joni Mitchell, Neil Young, the whole crew, Van Morrison. They all sang together. The whole documentary is so cool, I’d watch it over and over again and try and create these bandits by looking at their guitar straps and their whole vibe of the documentary.”

Coming from a family of diamond dealers in the great state of Texas, the petite designer contradicts her background. Producing three The 2 Bandits collections a year, Tamar chose to create costume jewelry rather than work in precious stones.

“My background, well I went to school in Israel to study gemology, stone study, because my dad’s a diamond dealer. He specializes in fine watches with my grandfather and they do really well. So I’ve just always had a jewelry background. I know I wouldn’t be able to design diamond jewelry because it’s really scary, it’s never been a passion of mine. I have more room for creativity with what I’m doing…”

With a pit stop in Israel, not the typical move for someone heading towards fashion, Tamar sits across from me as she brightens – “I mean why the hell not go to Israel?”

“Also, when I was younger, I grew up just really creative. Like I would go on tours with bands, like Phish and the Dead and sell patchwork out the back of my car. So I was like, what do I do when I’m 18? I’m going to move to Israel and see what’s going on. So I moved and just became this huge hippie, and gemology just wasn’t matching my lifestyle. Israel was amazing – I was lost in a spiritual world.” (She laughs)

“I grew up with The Phish and The Dead and Cat Stevens. I went to a hippie camp – it was in Missouri. After lunch we’d sing for two hours, and we had a songbook of The Grateful Dead, Joni Mitchell, all of them. So that’s why all my favorite music is camp music.”

Regardless of summers in Missouri, one can’t miss the Texan influence in Tamar’s collection – conchos, teepees, moonstones, and bootstraps. Other various items around her apartment disclose their guidance in her designs; a small tomahawk, tribal figurines and even Rigby, who sits patiently, dons a red bandana. The 2 Bandits, she explains, is a bit of a coincidence.

“Bandits had a rebirth last year. It started my last year out of F.I.T., I was wearing trim at the top of my boots. And I was at school and everyone was like ‘It looks so cool.’ It was kind of like a Navajo, jacquard Native American trim.”

Is this how 2 Bandits was born? I ask. She walks over to a mannequin in the room and pulls the boot trim off.

“I have it hanging up as a reminder, but I had it just like on top of my boots (displays the style by wrapping it at the top of her boot). And I kept getting compliments, and I was like you know what? This is a really good idea.”

So what inspired you to name your jewelry The 2 Bandits?

“It came from The Band, like The Band musical group. Because I love THE Band.”

So 2 Bandits is inspired by THE Band…

“Yea, but also when you think of the word Bandits you think – guacamole, hot tamales, banjos…everything that is my upbringing.”

What does a Bandit girl look like? I enquire, even though I have a clear image in my head. I just want to hear Tamar describe it because everything she’s said leading up to this point is what every free-spirited girl wants to embody.

“You can have a super refined outfit on but something has got to be torn up rustic, rustic meets refined. The perfect pair of distressed Levi’s is the best thing ever, but if you put a leather jacket with it, it’s the perfect outfit. Then add a Bandit’s collar or bandana. So, it’s mature, but something’s got to be rustic. You know what I’m saying?”

I know what she’s saying. It’s a look, an attitude, easily worn but not conveyed. At this point I think, it’s obvious why she is in San Francisco, but a designer on her level, typically doesn’t exist in our fashion climate.

I feel like most designers like you are in LA or stay in NYC?

“Yea…from New York [City] I moved to L.A. for 3 months, because I was dating a guy, a musician. I ended up…well we were long distance forever so I moved out to L.A. When I got there I was like I don’t like you, and I don’t like this city. [laughs] SO I left. And now I live in SF, with my boyfriend.”

Fair enough, this city is full of recovering L.A. natives.

What can we look forward to in your upcoming collection?

“I came up with this whole neck statement thing, bibs, collars. You’ll see in my next collection, I made a tie. I’m just trying to be different. I’m trying to take that old vintage tee that you wear everyday (motions to my white T-shirt) because I’m a T-shirt and jeans girl. When you put on a piece of jewelry – it’s a wow factor, it completes the whole outfit. (Points to me) You’re wearing a bolo right now, that’s all I look at when I look at you – besides your soul. (At which point I burst out laughing) But I’m serious its all I’m looking at.”

It’s surprising that such a small jewelry initiative garners such a cult online following. Featured in most of the big publications, Nylon, InStyle, Teen Vogue, Lucky Magazine to name a few… It wasn’t until fashion blogger, Amanda Shadforth of Oracle Fox, posted a few shots of herself donning a 2 Bandits cuff that a major collaboration knocked on Tamar’s door.

“Well the first look book that is [currently] on the site…I was actually really emotional during the shoot because it was like my first real collection and I was working with Ashley [Glorioso] and Zoey [Grossman] who are an amazing stylist and photographer. And I couldn’t stop thinking ‘Thank you. Thank you.’”

“Zoey saw my stuff on Oracle Fox because Mandy from Oracle Fox posted a picture wearing something of mine. So Zoey went on my website and got in contact with me. She said, “Your stuff is really great, but you could use some brand revamping.” And I was like I KNOW…”

Where did you guys shoot the look book?

“Because we were shooting in L.A., I couldn’t find anything I liked. So I used Air BnB and I found a hippie commune in Topanga Canyon, near Malibu. I contacted the guy and his name was The Light. I was like… what is going on here? There are aerialists floating thru the trees, there are moccasin makers -it was really cool. I was like this is the place!”

“And then I was so scared…because I was like Ashley, Zoey, this is a legit hippie commune. I’m bringing a real model, photographer and stylist to a hippie commune.

“When we got there they were so down, so it was cool. And Planet Blue [a Los Angeles based boutique] ended up shooting their latest look book there. I always try to portray that campy cabin-y look. We just shot my upcoming look book at Russian river in Guerneville. We shot in the Redwoods at a river, in a ranch…”

I check my phone. I realize I’ve posted up in The 2 Bandit’s studio an hour longer than I intended. I could lounge in this hippie haven talking music and weird life experiences for the rest of the day with Tamar. But real life calls, and I need to catch MUNI.

What advice can you give to fledgling designers and business owners?

“You have to be a specific brand. You have to be really specific when you’re designing. There are so many designers out there that just throw shit out there…I pride Bandits on creating stone settings and creating new jewelry from scratch. I think it’s all about keeping your customers happy, interacting with them on social media. And I don’t know, how do I say this – trying not to be so corporate, trying to be personal.”

Thank you Tamar! Check out The 2 Bandits here.

Written and Photographed by Sara Iravani

Comments Off

ALEXANDRA MERCURI REPORTS: HAIR DESIGN

-6

Dear Filep and iDEALS, I wanted to share with you the unique experience of watching a live cut and color Sassoon show that took place at Salon International 2012 in London.

The collection was inspired by Downtown NY, by the late 70's in Studio 54 by Warhol, Keith Haring Street art, Graffiti in other words Colors - Shapes - Design. A live hair show that left me amazed by the high level of craftsmanship, by the impeccable designs that embraces the face accentuating it's beauty ; making once more the statement that ' Hair is a white canvas ' and that the Sassoon Team are masters in the creation of such. The ultimate hair design show... BRAVO!

Till later

Alexandra Mercuri

-7

Comments Off

Ally Week + Spirit Day

Today marks the beginning of the 8th Annual Ally Week – five days dedicated to coming together and speaking out against the bullying and harrassment of LGBTQ youth (or anyone for that matter). It is a time for everyone to show their support for the LGBTQ community, to promote awareness and acceptance, and show those who are struggling that they are not alone.

The week comes to a close with Spirit Day  - on Friday, October 19th – and we encourage everyone in the School of Fashion and beyond to wear purple in a show of support. Spirit Day was started two years ago by teen, Brittany McMillan, as a response to the teens who had taken their own lives because of bullying by their peers. We’ll be at Café Dior from 11:30 to 12:30 on Friday taking photos of everyone in their best purple gear, so show your support and have your picture featured on Fashion School Daily! And for any online students, have someone take a photo of you and send it to fashionschooldaily@gmail.com to have your photo included!

Click for more info on Ally Week and Spirit Day. And remember, if you need to talk to someone, please reach out – we are all hear to help.

Comments Off

TAKE A LOOK INSIDE: IVANKA TRUMP’S PARK AVENUE APARTMENT

Date: 
16th October 2012
Post Image: 

read more

Comments Off